As I sank my feet into a jetted footbath and prepared to settle in for a long-anticipated treat, pedicurist Lisa looked up at me with a friendly smile and asked, “So, do you work?”
Despite having just come from a half-hour massage, I felt my neck muscles tighten in surprise. What kind of question was that? Ok, I may have a few more gray hairs than most 33-year-olds, but I am clearly not of retirement age. But then I looked around at the opulent surroundings of the CopperWynd Resort and Spa and realized that many of Lisa’s clients were probably wealthy wives who could answer a resounding “No!”
It was the second of three days of mid-week vacation at the Arizona luxury resort, a first-time adventure for both me and my good friend Candace Croney, who had invited me to try out the life of a rich person for a few days after she’d earned a companion ticket through her frequent flyer program.
Candace, an Oregon State University professor, had, like me, never experienced a spa vacation. After about a week of Internet research, had found a great deal on a room at the CopperWynd, a boutique resort located north of Phoenix and Scottsdale in Fountain Hills, Ariz. Because we arrived mid-week during the beginning of the low season, our normally $400 night room was a fraction of the price, and with my free plane ticket and a dirt cheap rental car, we had enough left over to splurge on some serious spa care.
Luckily, the well-timed deposit of my stimulus check allowed me to participate in what is becoming a hot trend in travel, known as “girlfriend vacations.” More and more often, women are leaving their partners at home and opting for a trip with friends, heading to exotic locations that emphasize fun, bonding and pampering, rather than romance.
Day one
When we arrived in Phoenix on a hot Tuesday afternoon, we jumped in our rented PT Cruiser, pumped up the local Latin rock station, and headed northeast, winding up into the hills and just past the famous Mayo Clinic before arriving at our destination, an adobe resort that bumped right up against saguaro cactus-covered hills filled with singing birds.
The grounds were overflowing with bougainvillaea and other blooming plants, and the waters of the resort’s two pools sparkled turquoise, beckoning us to escape from the 110-degree weather. Instead, we explored our guest room, which included two queen sized beds covered in Italian linens, a fireplace, a marble bathroom with an enormous bathtub and separate shower stall, and a balcony that overlooked the hills.
I kicked off my flip-flops and put on some heels that matched the pools. We headed to dinner at Alchemy, the resort’s four-star restaurant. By this time, the sun had started to go down, and the temperature hovered around 90, just right for outdoor dining.
I indulged in the chef’s specialty, pork tenderloin with a poblano pepper stuffed with Mexican cheddar and mashed potatoes. Candace opted for chicken breast over wild rice with grilled green beans.
By the time we’d finished dinner, about a thousand night hawks were circling overhead. We put the meal on our room tab and wandered down to stick our feet in the outdoor Jacuzzi before making our way to the smaller pool, which was hidden at the edge of the property. With my bathing suit all the way back at the room, and the night still very hot, I jumped into the pool in my street clothes. It was worth the soggy walk back up to the room.
Day two
The next morning, after breakfast on our balcony, we headed down to the spa for our appointments. Candace disappeared in her long white spa robe for an hour-long massage, before a woman named Ashley proceeded to give me an amazing half-hour neck and back massage that left me a bruised puddle. From there, I headed to the salon for my pedicure.
After Lisa asked me if I worked, I toyed with the idea of pretending that I too was a woman of luxury, but I just couldn’t do it. Instead, as Lisa turned my frumpy toes into soft, sparkly, candy-apple red bits of splendor, I told her that I was a reporter, and proceeded to grill her on life as a resort employee.
After a paraffin dip, leg massage and some tips on local dining, I headed back to the room, where Candace was equally stupefied by an overabundance of relaxation. We decided to head into Scottsdale to check out the Fashion Plaza, a mall with an emphasis on designer boutiques ranging from Betsey Johnson to Kate Spade to Jimmy Choo.
On Lisa’s recommendation, we powered up with a big lunch at the mall. Fortified, we shopped like mad, and I spent far too much at Sephora, including a bottle of Jean Paul Gaultier cologne for my boyfriend. While he enjoys shopping more than most men, I’m confident that even he would have tired of the pace Candace and I kept up as we went from store to store, disappearing into multiple dressing rooms and pushing our faces up against the glass at boutiques to sigh over shoes, purses and evening gowns.
After dinner, we headed back to the resort, where we did an evening swim under a very starry sky, before the luxury of the day overwhelmed us and we fell asleep.
Day three
Rain and dark skies made our final day a little less glorious, but we dined inside Alchemy for breakfast, enjoying our last glimpse of the wonderful views as we enjoyed omelettes and baguette French toast. We had just enough time for a little more shopping in Scottsdale before it was time to head for the airport and return to Oregon. As if to tease us, the skies erupted in a downpour, reminding us that it was time to leave the desert behind.
There won’t be many times in my life when the stars align to allow me to wallow in that kind of luxury, and frankly, I’m not sure that I could handle the lifestyles of the rich and famous on a regular basis, but it was a rare treat to enjoy a glimpse into a different world, and to do it with such a good friend.
Tips
Give yourself plenty of time to do online research. Pick your destination and your type of lodging (resort, hotel, bed and breakfast), and then check out Internet deals on lodging. But be careful to follow up by checking user comments on different options. We almost settled on a Scottsdale resort that sounded posh before reading that it was a “glorified Motel 6.”
To save money, go mid-week, and try to go during low season, which in hot locations like Arizona typically begins in late May. Find deals online, but call the concierge and see if you can’t negotiate an even better price.
Avoid “package” deals when possible, as they usually sound better than they are in actuality. Instead of going to a more expensive hotel which offered meal and spa discounts, we chose a resort that had much lower priced rooms and then limited our spa selections to what we could afford, saving us money in the end.
If you choose a resort, limit yourself to one big “blow-out” dinner at the resort’s restaurant, and then take the opportunity to explore nearby restaurants and enjoy local cuisine that will typically be much cheaper. Ask hotel staff, including maids and groundskeepers, where they love to eat. Locals will be able to point out hidden treasures you won’t find in your guidebook, and will also know more affordable options.