Bistro hosts images from and cuisine inspired by airline book

ALBANY - With long lines, security restrictions and cutbacks in every area, it's hard to imagine the airline industry before the muss and fuss of today's travel scenarios.

But for the month of June, Sybaris Bistro, 442 First Ave. in Albany, will take mid-valley residents back to the heyday of airline travel with an exhibit and a menu of true first-class fare.

Authors Johanna Omelia and Michael Waldock are curating the Sybaris exhibit based on their book, "Come Fly with Us! A Global History of the Airline Hostess." The book also inspired this month's menu.

"In the 1940s, '50s and '60s, planes had cocktail lounges - you book your dinner and then go have a drink. … Even in coach, they had really good, thought-out meals and super, high-end chefs preparing those meals," Omelia said.

Sybaris co-owner and chef Matt Bennett has developed a three-course meal based on one served in the first-class cabin on Air New Zealand in 1978.

Bennett is sticking to the old theme of high-end perfection for his menu. He searched online to find actual recipes but had specific reasons for settling on the Air New Zealand recipes.

"I wanted something to cater to a modern palate and still be in season," Bennett said.

Items that are in season are important to Bennett because he and wife Janel Bennett, who co-owns Sybaris with him, base their menu on what can be obtained locally. The products served in their restaurant are purchased from the farmers' markets. Every month, the menu changes to reflect what's in season.

The "Come Fly With Us!" meal includes trout grenobloise (sauteed trout filet with capers and lemon), pheasant souvaroff (pheasant breast stuffed with foie gras and Oregon truffles, then roasted in a casserole with potatoes, celery and baby carrots) and cherries jubilee with housemade vanilla ice cream.

While dining, patrons should check out the art on display from the book. Many of the images are from old advertising campaigns or photos taken aboard flights found in airline archives.

Two uniforms are also on display. One is the United Airlines Skimmer that was introduced in the 1960s and done by Hollywood Design. The Skimmer was popular for hostesses of that era because it allowed for more freedom of movement, unlike previous uniforms, Waldock said.

The second is a Malaysian Sarong Kebaya introduced in the 1970s. A variation of this uniform is still used today on regional airlines.

Sybaris Bistro is open from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; it is closed Sunday and Monday. Call 928-8157 for reservations.

For a copy of "Come Fly With Us!" or to learn about the history of an industry pioneered by women, visit www.collectorspress.com.