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Here's hot-button issue for you: What to serve on election night

WASHINGTON - Just about everybody has been swept up in the drama of Campaign 2008. Unfortunately, that includes the PR masterminds at restaurants, bars, bakeries and convenience stores. - I've had the chance to "cast my vote'' by ordering Obamalettes or McCainlettes at Silver Diner; Jager Bamas (a combo of Red Bull and Jagermeister) or McHitos (basically a mojito) at Degrees, the bar at the Georgetown Ritz-Carlton.

Bethesda's Burger Joint invited me to "go with my gut'' as I chose between the McCain Burger, topped with "Southwest influences like poblano chili and chipotle peppers,'' and the Obama Burger, stacked with - wait for it - "authentic Vienna beef hot dog imported from Chicago.''

I know this country has bigger things to worry about: two wars, an economic meltdown, the end of Madonna and Guy Ritchie's marriage (which really did seem promising at the start). But it got me thinking. Perhaps the deluge of contrived election ideas says as much about us as about the current state of public relations. Why in the self-proclaimed greatest democracy in the world do we have food traditions for the Super Bowl but none for election night?

Yes, the presidential election happens only every four years. But you'd think that if nowhere else, Washington would have some kind of quadrennial ritual. (Interns of losing incumbents could streak naked around the Capitol, at the very least.)

But Washington might in fact be less likely to have election traditions than other American cities. Political staffers have headed back to their districts to canvass and, hopefully, celebrate. Consultants have signed on for punditry duty on TV, where the best they're likely to eat is a slice of cold pizza in the green room. The media elite? They're at work.

Without leadership, we, the People, are unsure what to do. And so most of us instinctively follow that all-American urge and order takeout. Chinese food, pizza and bar staples such as nachos and wings seem to be popular. The Seattle Times recently reported that restaurant to-go orders skyrocketed on debate nights this election season, putting them on par with real holidays such as Halloween and Super Bowl Sunday.

To be fair, it is tough to decide how to mark the day. Will it be a party or a wake? How late in the night will it be before you even find out?

Who will be watching the returns with you? If it's a bipartisan group, the etiquette can be tricky. Do you pop open a bottle of bubbly for the victors and offer something stronger to the losers? A good friend suggested that the only politically correct course might be to encourage everyone to drink heavily.

Then there's the food. You're all in front of the TV, so you'll want to avoid things that require a fork and knife. (That is why chili works so well for the Super Bowl. It's meaty and manly, and you can eat it with a spoon.) On the other hand, there's loads of downtime. After the East Coast results roll in, those pizza-scarfing pundits spend hours killing time until they can call Midwestern states (read: Ohio). So it's not unthinkable that guests would take a stroll over to the buffet table.

Here's what shouldn't be there: Mini quiches. Frozen pizzas. Chinese takeout.

Here are two things that could: Homemade wine-pepper biscuits and pulled chipotle pork. Both can be made in advance and served at room temperature.

Call it my vote for change.

Pulled pork with corn and chipotle

12 to 14 servings (makes about 14 cups)

This versatile mixture makes the most of an inexpensive cut of meat. The recipe doubles easily.

MAKE AHEAD: The pork can be slow-roasted 2 days in advance, allowed to cool and refrigerated in its heavy foil wrapping. Reheat in a 325-degree oven for 20 minutes, then unwrap and shred. The pork mixture can be made 1 day in advance. (Be advised that the chipotles may dispense more heat through the dish with a few days' refrigeration.) The avocado cream should be assembled no more than 1 hour before serving.

Pork mixture:

1/3 cup store-bought or homemade grilling spice rub, such as McCormick's Grill Mates Pork Rub

3 pounds boneless pork (butt) shoulder, trimmed of most of its excess fat

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kernels from 5 to 7 ears of corn (may substitute 4 to 6 cups frozen corn kernels, defrosted)

9 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 to 3 bunches scallions, white and light-green parts minced and reserved in 2 discrete piles

2 teaspoons kosher salt

3 tablespoons coarse-grain mustard

3 tablespoons cabernet vinegar (may substitute red wine vinegar)

12 canned chipotles in adobo, finely chopped (seeds included)

1 cup coarsely chopped packed cilantro leaves

Avocado cream:

Flesh of 3 medium Hass avocados

1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon low-fat sour cream (do not use nonfat)

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Fine sea salt

Lime wedges, for serving

Directions:

For the pork mixture: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Rub the barbecue spice all over the pork shoulder. Wrap in heavy-duty aluminum foil, being careful to cover the meat entirely so it is not exposed to direct heat.

Place on a baking sheet and slow-roast for 2 to 3 hours or until the internal temperature measures 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. (At this point, the meat can be cooled and refrigerated in its foil wrap for up to 2 days.)

Transfer to a cutting board to cool slightly, then use heatproof gloves or 2 forks to pull the meat into shreds. Place in a large mixing bowl.

Heat the oil in a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it has slightly darkened in color. Add the garlic, the whites of the scallions and the salt, stirring to combine; cook for 2 minutes, then remove from heat.

Combine the mustard, vinegar, chopped chipotle peppers, scallion greens, cilantro and salt to taste in a medium bowl; add to the shredded pork and toss until well incorporated. (At this point, the mixture can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 day.)

For the avocado cream: Puree the avocado in a food processor until smooth, then transfer to a medium bowl and fold in the sour cream, lime juice and salt to taste. If not serving immediately, place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface and refrigerate until ready to use.

The pork mixture can be served warm or at room temperature, with chips, the avocado cream and lime wedges on the side.

Wine biscuits

with cracked black pepper

Makes 42 small biscuits

These homemade wafers can increase the appeal of a buffet cheese display. The bread flour makes a firmer cracker.

The recipe doubles easily, though you might have to do it in 2 batches, because the dough is made in the food processor. The cap of a 48-ounce bottle of Crisco vegetable oil can be used for a cookie cutter here.

MAKE AHEAD: The baked, cooled biscuits can be stored in an airtight tin for up to 1 month.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup dry red wine

1 cup bread flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon minced rosemary or thyme leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Directions:

Bring the wine to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes or until the liquid has reduced by half. Remove from the heat.

Position oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 325 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Combine the flour, sugar, black pepper, rosemary or thyme, salt and baking powder in a food processor; pulse to mix well.

Combine the reduced wine and oil in a liquid measuring cup, then add to the food processor. Process until a lump of dough forms.

Lightly flour a work surface. Turn the dough out onto the work surface and roll out to a little more than 1/8-inch thick. Use a 11/2-inch round cookie cutter to cut rounds of dough, placing them 1/2 inch apart on the baking sheets. Re-roll the dough scraps once or twice to yield the full amount of biscuits.

Bake for about 15 minutes, then rotate the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back between the 2 oven racks. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden brown and crisp. Transfer the biscuits to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

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